@workingonthehouse8038

I think how you balance your high standards and practical approach to people’s budgets is admirable Nick. As well as putting it out there under public scrutiny 🧐

@John_Faultless

People get too bogged down with what others think. The person who's signing the report is the one who has to stand up in court and justify their decision should the worst happen. There is no "correct" answer, just use your engineering judgement to determine if the installation is safe for continued use. Knowledge and experience are essential for carrying out eicr's. Unfortunately some sparks bend the regulations to rip people off scaring them into having unnecessary works carried out. Could the installation be safer? Sure. But that's not the question. It's is safe for continued use. Only knowledge of new and old editions of the regs and installation methods can answer that.

@TheShinnion

When your megger flashes 0.00ohms on the r1+r2 test this means its NOT nulled, I would recommend to test the cpc of the individual circuit to avoid parallel paths (a true reading) always test from the furthest point of the circuit ie metal body of oven/hob etc etc. keep er lit Nick 👍

@edglue6138

What you’re saying Nick, is… some trades men are scum bags. And they’d rob the eyes out of your head and come back for the sockets

@dnnymlln

"9:05" The reason you should always disconnect from the earth bar is because of parallel paths, with the link you may be getting a perfectly good reading and believe the circuit is correctly earthed as the circuit could be bonded via extraneous conductive parts, say for an example someone disconnects this/or it is lost, the appliance will have no earth to it 👍Bin those silly links and start testing properly✨

@ozstriker1084

Hi, good video. 

You are correct The regs don’t need to be applied retrospectively but like you said it’s your call as the electrician if you would want to put your name on an installation with no RCD protection. 

When your using the wonder lead put the tester around your neck and carry the lead reel with you saves the trips back to the tester. Just need to reel off enough first to get around the property. Also while you going around you can get an R2 at you hob and the hinge on the oven or any other appliances/ white goods. 

Not dropping the earths out the bus bar isn’t an issue unless there is parallel paths ie immersion heater could have no R2 but you would get a reading through the water bond or shower could have no R2 and you’d get a reading through the bathroom cage bond. 

Like your videos. Nice to see a good tradesman at work 👍

@gabor.nadudvari

It is similar to my country in EU. The testing method should be done according to the actual standards, but the evaluation should be based on the regulation at the date of installation. So if there was evidently no modification (not referring to a socket change, or to a new earthing rod installation during maintenance), then it should be a satisfactory in EICR.
Unfortunately several electrician use it to scam people. Like you mentioned, swap out fuse board with no reason with minimal effort (several cases with cheap things from home depot) and ask for lot of money and give a pass. (or worst case fake something without certification)
The point they forget, if you change the board now, then the entire residence should meet the actual regulations, not only the board, but they leave the dodgy setup in place. If a conscientious inspector arrives later, then he would had passed the original setup, but it will fail it with the actual condition as modification was not made according to the to code at the time of the change.

@MrKwelsh

Good video as usual. I agree with you regarding the no RCD.   Get yourself some red crimps for crimping the earths on light circuits and socket circuits. Yellow is for 4 to 6mm cable.

@markpotter8280

Good video Nick as always. I've been an electrician for many decades and consider myself very knowledgeable on the subject (As all us electricians do lol) and as on all your video's I can't find fault in anything you say. Except for as someone else mentioned in the comments the parallel paths, yea it's a thing but in a house that size I would not lose any sleep by leaving all the earths on the finals connected in the board when I did the EICR. So long as I got good readings at the time of the test  and everything is earthed. On a new install that's a whole different kettle of fish I would test each circuit before connecting to the board.

@acelectricalsecurity

You are right if it complied when it was done you can put a satisfactory on it, it's knowing when it was done and to which edition.
Electrical safety council were advising a code 3 for no RCD protection on sockets while napit were saying code 2.
I put a code 2 on a job I did for well known children's charity their building guy didn't like it and got another NIC firm in who passed it, this was a workplace and the staff were bringing in their own appliances, which I knew and explained to him but he wouldn't have it, so I let them get on with it.
 It's me in the dock if it goes tits up and these people will not come to your defence if it means saving their own neck.

@ashleybignell2366

Totally agree. Just because it's sub-standard doesnt't make it unsafe. RCD's are for additional protection on Tn systems, Ads should apply for fuses & breakers etc. I'd certainly code C2's on no RCD's for potential use of sockets outside & bathrooms without equipotential bonding.

@lambornewagner6600

You are a true professional. Your approach to your customers and your trade is to be admired.

I personally have now retired, after completing my apprenticeship in 1977... holding 14th, 15th, 16th and 17th edition qualifications.. (when I was offered the 18th edition course  by the company I was working for I said.. I'm six months away from retirement.. give it to one of the younger lads! and several other qualifications including being the authorised person for 10kV switching at a local factory

Sadly  I have been called in from time to time to give an opinion of work and/or quotes being given by some supposed "experts" to family and friends. 
Quite frankly some of it has been horrifying and I have always been a big sceptic of this  "Part P" bullshit that allows people with a minimum level of training to buy a serious qualification

@andrewwhite3793

I always tell landlords to make it simple and to remember they should not project their preferences on to the tenant ie smart switches. 
In Scotland it is mandatory that rental properties consumer units must be up to the 17th/18th edition.
Plus there must be interconnected smoke and heat detectors in the Kitchen / Living room /Hall & Landing (now applicable to ALL domestics premises) 
Why ? IMO the fire detector manufacturers are using Scotland as a Trojen horse to get changes in England

@antonypearce3797

RCD protection is a C3 all the way unless you can use it outdoors. Bathrooms also C3 as long as it has supplementary bonding if not C2.

@gavinmills43

when doing R1+R2 or Zs on ovens and hobs i always only plug the red on the plug and test using a probe onto the chassis for the cpc, obvs just add the neutral for the Zs, just proves that there's a complete earth path to things that are touched, testing only at the socket will not show an earth fault on the actual appliance.

@jonathanrose456

Possible issues with PME earths (combined neutral) with return current from other properties. If it detects voltage, it won’t test. Put an amp probe on the earth before disconnecting. It’s unlikely, but you could get a shock from a PME earth.

@MarcusNailor

Great vid! 👌
Good to see the X1 back in use, even if it's playing silly buggers 😆

@johnsommer9818

Great video Nick. The inspection and coding should always be done to the current edition. Your completed form will state as such in the wording - inspected and tested to BS 7671:2018. This is what is taught on the 2391. This is also in law, being stated in Electrical Safety Standards in The PRS (England) Regulations 2020.
We are concerned with safety and the suitability of the installation and some things have moved on and depending on the circumstances may warrant being considered potentially dangerous (e.g. where absence of additional protection of sockets is concerned). Other things, which are simply old hat, such as BS 3036 fuses are fine and not even considered codeable.
I have never understood the view to the contrary - the current version is where our expertise lies, in most cases we cannot know what version the original installation was carried out to, nor have access to the correct version of historic regulations. Imagine trying to defend oneself in court on that basis.

@stevegrimwood5109

The frustration of interpreting the regs, why the IET can’t guidance on coding some of these issues, especially regarding domestic properties is beyond me. Best Practice Guide No 6 gives a pretty good structure for coding and can be referred to in reports for coding.

@evanfpv

I completely agree, if it’s an upstairs flat no access to outdoors with say a Crabtree C50 board I’ll give it a satisfactory EICR providing it has supplementary bonding in bathrooms where required and all test results are within spec. I’ve seen guys C2’ing no smoke alarms 🤦‍♂️🤣.