THANK YOU, you have helped me understand more about how to espalier than any of books I have read and other videos I have watched. I am finally not intimidated. Again, thank you!
Brilliant video, I'd argue the last word on the topic. Thanks for such a useful upload ๐
Excellent video! I learned so much in a short time about fruit trees.
I learned a lot watching this video. You are very charming. Cheers from Ottawa, Canada๐
Love the concise, yet comprehensive advice and picture
Thank you, I have a really small garden and have always thought of doing an espalier apple but not had the confidence to start. You explained it really simply so I will give it a go and thanks for all the info on the rooting stock size, very helpful.
Wow, learnt so much from this video. Thanks.
cant tell you enough how informative and inspirational your content is. thank you
Loved your video presentation and smile. Subbed!
Thankyou. I have no space really and just rely on planting on big pots. And thankfully some bear fruits
This is an excellent video Amy. Easy to understand, knowledgeable content. Definitely the best overview of fruit tree size management and training Iโve seen.
What an amazing idea! Your presentation of the topic is fantastic ๐คฉ Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge ๐
What an awsome video. Well done.๐
Have been growing and grafting apple and pear espalier trees for three decades. Here are a few comments: Allow the future horizontal whips to grow at about a 45 degree angle, fastened to a thin rod. Fold the rod down in the late summer and fasten it to the horizontal support. For each new level start like this. These trees must be pruned twice a year. Cut back the non fruit budding branches in late winter. Always cut at angle directly after a bud. With the exception of the centre lead which will also be cut back slightly, this can be fairly substantial. At the beginning, be patient and cut a fair bit back otherwise the short branches will be much bigger than you want requiring more massive trimming in a few years time. Bind the new growth of the central lead of each branch regularly to the support to keep it growing straight. The second pruing is usually in May or early June. After the winter pruning, new shoots will develop. Leave about three buds and cut these back again. This will promote the development of more fruit bearing buds. After a few years further pruning will also be necessary to thin out the tree. Pruning the roots can also be helpful to provide new growth to support the large amount of fruit these trees provide. I have had good luck with MM #9 (Melton Mawlings) root stock. With experience, I have found that some varieties are better suited to espalier growing than others. Espalier make great borders along paths or at the end of a small area. Temperature sensitive fruits can be grown against a protective south facing wall.
Thank you, your explanations are simple and to the point. Best video Iโve seen regarding this topic๐
Well done Amy thats probably the best informative video I've seen. Im now on board. Take a bow! ๐
I learnt alot here,
This was an incredibly informative video, thank you! I've started a fig tree in a pot this year and it is good to know that it can be kept in a relatively small pot and still do well. Now I want to try training a pear tree ๐
Some people also do stepover of fig trees, it looks very cool. Great concise video
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